Château Pichon Baron Pauillac 2020

Bordeaux’s 2020 growing season was far from ideal; top terroirs and old vines handled the rainy spring and hot, dry summer best. Respected second-growth Château Pichon Baron has been under the ownership of insurance company AXA since 1987; Christian Seely took over as managing director in 2000, following in the footsteps of the late Jean-Michel Cazes. Along with longtime winemaker Jean-René Matignon, who retired in 2022, the duo renovated the cellar and tweaked farming methods during their time together, deftly steering Pichon Baron into today’s elite group of modern Left Bank properties. Pichon Baron’s 2020 grand vin is broad and well-proportioned, with a vibrant iron spine buried in its dark fruit.

Tasting Note

This has a very large-scaled yet properly proportioned core of cassis, plum and blackberry fruit flavors that are remarkably pure and focused. Buried deep within is a sleek, vibrant iron spine that drives the finish as the fruit keeps pace. Extra savory, tobacco and cedar nuances fill out all the remaining available space. A towering wine, with a buttoned-up feel. Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Best from 2030 through 2045.—James Molesworth