Bodegas Aalto Ribera del Duero 2012

Mariano García made the wines at Spanish icon Vega Sicilia for 30 years before founding Aalto in 1999 with partner Javier Zaccagnini, and the young winery has established a record of consistent quality. This bottling is 100 percent Tinto Fino (the local name for Tempranillo), primarily from old-vine vineyards. After a brutally dry summer in 2012, García decided to drop 30 percent of the grape bunches to encourage uniform ripening of the remaining fruit on the drought-stressed vines. The wine ages an average of 20 months in 85 percent French oak, the rest American.

Tasting Note

This red shows focus and density, with rich flavors of plum, blackberry, cocoa, licorice and mineral. The structure is muscular but graceful, featuring ripe fruit complemented by savory notes that keep this balanced and fresh. Best from 2016 through 2032.—Thomas Matthews