Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Crau 2020

In Châteauneuf-du-Pape, there’s one vineyard that stands above the rest: the plateau of La Crau, covered in round stones (galets roulés). Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe is the largest landowner in this coveted lieu-dit. Named for the signal tower that was used in the 18th century to telegraph messages, Vieux Télé (as it’s affectionately known) has been run by the Brunier family for six generations. Many Châteauneufs are blockbusters in power and alcohol, but the Brunier style is famously elegant and savory. Sourced from 60- to 110-year-old vines, the flagship 2020 red offers charming, old-school appeal, impressive depth and a long life ahead.

Tasting Note

This shows a lot of aromatic appeal, with dusty earth and singed incense notes covering a well of fresh cherry and red currant flavors. A gutsy, grippy style on the palate, with a cast-iron spine bringing firm shape and underlying power. Slightly old-school, this still needs time to unfurl. Grenache, Mourvèdre, Syrah and Cinsault. Best from 2025 through 2035. 2,500 cases imported.—Kristen Bieler