Château Climens Barsac 2013

Sometimes referred to as the “Lord of Barsac,” Château Climens boasts centuries of history. Lucien Lurton bought the property in 1971; his daughter Bérénice took over in 1992. The estate, which relies entirely on Sémillon grapes for its sweet wines, has been farmed biodynamically since 2010; it was certified organic in 2013. For the sweet wines of Sauternes and Barsac, pickers make multiple passes through the vineyard to select the grapes that have been concentrated by botrytis, but the particularly wet 2013 harvest required that these tries be accomplished quickly between rainfall and hailstorms. However, the limestone soils of Barsac drain well and ensured freshness in the final wine.

Tasting Note

There’s loads here, with apricot, nectarine and clementine flavors stitched with a racy orange zest note to give energy, while tropical papaya and mango flavors add a sublimely creamy edge. The finish sails on and on, coating the palate with a porcelain feel, while an echo of bitter almond lingers effortlessly, like a lace curtain hanging on an endless breeze. Stunning. Best from 2018 through 2043.—James Molesworth