Château Canon-La Gaffelière St.-Emilion 2014

In 1988, shortly after taking over this estate from his father, Stephan von Neipperg introduced more sustainable winegrowing practices. Intent on getting the most out of the clay, limestone and sandy soils, von Neipperg brought on consultant Stéphane Derenoncourt in 1996. Since then, they have elevated the quality of the wines and earned organic certification for the vineyards. For the past few years, they have used cold maceration before the fermentation, which draws color and flavor from the grapes without extracting tannins.

Tasting Note

This cuts a wide swath, with mouthwatering tobacco and warm ganache notes leading the way, followed by a wave of fig, blackberry and black currant preserves. Shows remarkable definition already, even though the structure is strident. Tempting now, but just put this in the back of the cellar. Best from 2020 through 2035.—James Molesworth