Château Canon-La Gaffelière St.-Emilion 2015

Count Stephan von Neipperg looks the part of timeless royalty. But this energetic vintner is a modernist, pushing his family’s properties to organic growing practices long thought too difficult to achieve in the maritime climate of Bordeaux. Canon-La Gaffelière is von Neipperg’s flagship estate, situated on limestone and clay slopes below the plateau of St.-Emilion. The blend of 55 percent Merlot, 38 percent Cabernet Franc and 7 percent Cabernet Sauvignon is aged in less than two-thirds new oak, allowing its purity and freshness to shine. This 2015 matches the classic scores earned by the 2010 and 2009, while its price makes it a great value in ageworthy Bordeaux.

Tasting Note

Still youthfully tight and backward, with a well-roasted frame of alder and juniper holding sway for now, but the core of cassis, blackberry and plum fruit waits in reserve, showing prodigious depth. When the toast and fruit melds, the backdrop of tobacco, singed iron and chalky minerality will get a turn to show. There’s a lot here. Built for the cellar. Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. Best from 2025 through 2040. 6,250 cases made.—James Molesworth